一孔录The video for this chapter is still in production. For now this page gives the original text, the facsimile page, a working translation and the commentary; the full reading follows when the video is out.
君子不以紺緅飾。紅紫不以為褻服。當暑，袗絺綌，必表而出之。緇衣羔裘，素衣麑裘，黃衣狐裘。褻裘長。短右袂。必有寢衣，長一身有半。狐貉之厚以居。去喪，無所不佩。非帷裳，必殺之。羔裘玄冠不以弔。吉月，必朝服而朝。The gentleman did not use dark purple or puce for trimmings, nor red or purple for everyday clothes. In hot weather he wore unlined fine or coarse linen, always over an inner garment. With a black robe, lambskin; with a white robe, fawnskin; with a yellow robe, fox fur. His everyday fur coat was long, with the right sleeve short. He always had a sleeping garment one and a half times his body length. Thick fox and badger furs were for sitting at home. Out of mourning, he wore all his pendants. Except for the ceremonial skirt, his skirts were cut narrower. He did not wear lambskin and a black cap to offer condolences. On the first day of the month, he always went to court in court dress.
What this chapter says
一孔按：衣服的颜色、季节、长短、场合都有规矩：不用近于丧祭的颜色作饰，暑天单衣外面加罩，裘衣与外衣颜色相配，睡有寝衣。穿衣的分寸，也是礼的一部分。常有人问“乡党篇记孔子穿衣的颜色和长短，穿衣服也有这么多讲究吗”，上面是一孔录的回答。
Yikonglu's reading of this chapter is in Chinese for now; the English version comes with the video.
白Plain Chinese
君子不用深青透红色和黑里带红的布做衣服镶边。红色、紫色不用来做家常便服。暑天穿单层的细葛布或粗葛布衣，一定在里面衬上衣，再把葛衣罩在外面。黑衣配黑羊羔皮袍，白衣配白鹿皮袍，黄衣配狐皮袍。家居穿的皮袍做得长些，右边袖子短些，便于做事。睡觉一定有被子，长度是身长的一倍半。用厚实的狐貉皮毛做坐垫，家居时用。除去丧服以后，各种佩饰都可以佩戴。不是上朝祭祀穿的整幅帷裳，一定要裁剪缝制。黑羊羔皮袍和黑色礼帽不穿戴去吊丧。每月初一，一定穿上朝服去朝见国君。
Draft plain-Chinese rendering following Zhu Xi; it will be checked when the chapter is covered.
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Close reading and checking
For readers who want to go deeper or check our work: key words in the commentary, what other commentators say, textual variants, the commentaries in their own words with facsimile pages, pronunciation and corrections. Tap a heading to open it.
常The common reading
乡党篇记孔子穿衣的颜色和长短，穿衣服也有这么多讲究吗？
注Key words in the commentary
君子，谓孔子。绀，深青扬赤色，齐服也。緅，绛色。三年之丧，以饰练服也。饰，领缘也。
核Zhu Xi's commentary, line by line
Zhu Xi's own words on each line of this chapter, each checked against the base-edition page. Other commentators are added when the chapter is covered. About this edition
| Line | Quoted text | Page |
|---|---|---|
| 君子不以绀緅饰。 | “君子，谓孔子。绀，深青扬赤色，齐服也。緅，绛色。三年之丧，以饰练服也。饰，领缘也。” | page 133 |
| 红紫不以为亵服。 | “红紫，闲色不正，且近于妇人女子之服也。亵服，私居服也。言此则不以为朝祭之服可知。” | page 133 |
| 当暑，袗𫄨绤，必 | “袗，单也。葛之精者曰絺，麤者曰綌。表而出之，谓先著里衣，表絺綌而出之于外，欲其不见体也。” | page 133—134 |
| 缁衣羔裘，素衣麑 | “缁，黑色。羔裘用黑羊皮。麑，鹿子，色白。狐色黄。衣以裼裘，欲其相称。” | page 133—134 |
| 短右袂。 | “长欲其温，短右袂所以便作事。” | page 134 |
| 必有寝衣，长一身 | “齐主于敬，不可解衣而寝，又不可著明衣而寝，故别有寝衣，其半盖以覆足。” | page 134 |
| 狐貉之厚以居。 | “狐貉，毛深温厚，私居取其适体。” | page 134 |
| 吉月，必朝服而朝 | “此错简，当在齐必有明衣布之下。” | page 134 |
| 吉月，必朝服而朝 | “如此，则此条与明衣、变食既得以类相从，而亵裘、狐貉亦得以类相从矣。” | page 134 |
| 吉月，必朝服而朝 | “吉月，月朔也。孔子在鲁致仕时如此。” | page 134 |
| 吉月，必朝服而朝 | “此一节，记孔子衣服之制。” | page 134 |
| 吉月，必朝服而朝 | “此孔氏遗书，杂记曲礼，非特孔子事也。” | page 134 |
家Other commentaries
Our base text is Zhu Xi's Collected Commentaries (above). Here are other commentaries side by side: for old commentaries, the first line of the sub-commentary with a link to the woodblock scan; for modern editions, one short quoted translation for comparison. The “compared with Zhu Xi” notes are written by Yikonglu, not quoted.
皇侃《论语义疏》Liang dynasty · 1750 Japanese woodblock edition · juan 五
“君子衣服有法，不可雜色也。”……
Compared with Zhu Xi
| Commentary | Point | Relation | Confidence | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 杨伯峻《论语译注》 | 服色理由 | differs | settled | 杨认为绀緅近黑、红紫类朱而贵；朱以绀斋緅练服、红紫间色近女服解释不用。勿混成同一服制。 |
| 钱穆《论语新解》 | differs | fairly sure | 寝衣、狐貉名物不同：钱寝衣取夜服及膝、厚皮作坐褥；朱以卧被释寝衣，并以狐貉厚毛皮裘取温。两家均认冠服关礼制非奢饰。 |
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